Introduction
The most common way for the average consumer to purchase preloved luxury is online at trusted vendors. Why online though? Convenience, variety, and access to global sellers make it the go-to choice. With just a few clicks, you can compare prices, browse endless options, and if you’re lucky enough, discover rare gems waiting to be found!
As most of you know, preloved luxury from Japan is considered the safest way to source your authentic goods, thanks to the country’s strict counterfeit laws and meticulous attention to quality.
But sometimes, you might come across a cute Gucci at your local vintage store for a measly $100 and a whirlwind of questions floods your mind.
Is it authentic? Where’s the damage? Can the vendor be trusted?
And will I notice any issues before I slide my credit card?
Thrifting luxury can be daunting. While the ticket of entry is often cheaper than buying from established websites, it comes with its own set of caveats and risks. Navigating the world of secondhand luxury requires a sharp eye, a little research, and some knowledge to ensure you’re getting authentic and worthwhile pieces.
Lucky for you, we’ve made you a go-to guide for your next thrift run. These tips are equally valid online, so get out some pen and paper, and let’s dive in!
First things first: Authenticity
We’re starting with this as it’s the top concern for most buyers, regardless of their experience level.
When it comes to luxury brands, Louis Vuitton is one of the most popular and expensive in the world. Naturally, this means its most sought-after models are also among the most counterfeited items in the world as well.
For this reason, let’s use Louis Vuitton as an example of how you can find authentic items in the wild.
So, how can you tell if a Louis Vuitton piece is the real deal?
Louis Vuitton
Date Codes
Every Louis Vuitton bag produced between January 1, 1982, and March 1, 2021, comes with a “date code” printed, stamped, or attached somewhere on the item. Sometimes the code can be hard to find, but it’s always there! Even on smaller items like cigarette cases, you will find the code stamped on the inner lining.
If the item has no date code, it’s probably not worth your time, unless it’s vintage.
If you’re not familiar with telling between vintage and non vintage items, see the section a bit further down giving you some tells.
The Basics of Louis Vuitton Date Codes
Here’s a breakdown of the evolution of Louis Vuitton’s date codes:
~1982:
There were no date codes before this year. If an item looks semi-vintage but has no code, look at the hardware to cross reference (more on this later). However, it’s likely the item is either fake or had repair done.
1982 - Mid 1980s
In response to the growing rise of counterfeit items, Louis Vuitton began using date codes as a way to ensure authenticity. The early code was simple and straightforward, consisting of 3-4 digits that represented the year and month of manufacture.
Example: 823
The first two digits (82) represent the year (1982). And the last digit (3) represents the month (March).
Mid 1980s - 1990: Inclusion of Factory Codes
Louis Vuitton added letters to the date codes to represent the factory location where the item was produced. The code consisted 3-4 digits + 2 letters.
Example: 882 VI
The letters (VI) are code for what factory it’s from. (French Facility)
The first two digits (88) represent the year (1988). And the last digit (2) represents the month (February).
There are a few vintage codes that have four digits instead of three. These are items produced during the months October, November & December, as the month’s counters have double digits.
1990 - 2006: Standardised Format
During this time period, Louis Vuitton standardized the date code format to include 2 letters followed by 4 digits. The letters represented the factory location, while the numbers indicated the month and year of production.
Example: AR 1004
The letters (AR) are code for what factory it’s from. (French Facility)
The first and third digits (1_0_) represent the month (October). And the second and fourth digit (_0_4) represent the year (1904).
2007 - 2021: Weekly Date Codes
In 2007, the code format was updated so the numbers represented the week and year of manufacture. These codes have 2 letters and 4 digits.
Example: SD 2101
The letters (SD) are code for what factory it’s from. (French Facility)
The first and third digits (2_0_) represent the week (20/52). And the second and fourth digit (_1_1) represent the year (2011).
March 1st 2021 ~
From this point on, date codes are now inside a near field communication (NFC) chip sewn into the item, meaning you will no longer find visible date codes on newer pieces. These chips can be scanned at Louis Vuitton boutiques and are securely stored on private blockchain accessible only to LVMH.
They contain far more detailed information, including the country, week, and year of manufacture, as well as additional data such as where and when the bag was sold.
Trademark Stamp & Branding
All Louis Vuitton items have a trademark stamp. This includes, in order:
- All rights reserved mark (®)
- The company name: “Louis Vuitton”
- The company origin: “Paris”
- The tagline: “made in [Country]” (e.g., France, Spain, or USA)
This writing stamped into the leather is consistent with fonts and alignment based on what year it’s from. A recommended course of action is to check the date code to find what year it’s from, and compare the trademark stamp to an authentic example to look for anomalies.
Hardware
Metal parts are naturally harder to counterfeit. This means it’s a common dead giveaway. To look for anomalies, start by examining the rivets–are they stamped correctly? Is the shape correct? Is the font concise?
The Zipper and handle are also good areas to inspect. Louis Vuitton manufactures their metal parts out of 1 solid piece of metal. If it looks like 2 parts welded together, it’s not authentic. However, keep in mind that certain vintage pieces may have different manufacturers for zippers, such as Eclair, which was commonly used during specific periods.
Canvas & Leather
Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Canvas is their most recognizable material and pattern. As their pride and joy, they will not mess up the monogram!
For cylinder-style bags like the Speedy and Keepall, Louis Vuitton will always attempt to use the largest pieces of material possible, which is why it’s common to see the pattern appear upside down on one side—it’s a sign of authenticity, not a flaw. This occurs due to their vertical construction, where a single piece of material wraps seamlessly around the bag's body, with two separate pieces affixed at the ends to create the cylindrical shape. Counterfeit bags often overlook this detail, resulting in a monogram that faces upright on both sides—a dead giveaway for a fake.
Louis Vuitton Keepall
In contrast, bucket bags and totes, such as the Petit Bucket, Noé, and Neverfull, are crafted with horizontal construction. This means their monogram print always reads upright on both sides, maintaining symmetry throughout.
Louis Vuitton Neverfull
Also look out if the handles are not neatly placed over the pattern to create symmetry. Any misalignment is a red flag.
Other brands
Just like Louis Vuitton, all other brands have their own tells on what to look for. While the specifics differ, the general principles remain the same. Look for symbols of authenticity, fonts & branding, hardware, materials, and stitching. With just a little bit of research into your favorite brand, you’ll quickly level up your buyer confidence.
Wear and tear
When shopping, it’s easy to get star struck by the logos and designs. But remember, while we say “pre-loved”, not every household is as loving as they claim to be. Here are the spots to look for damage:
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Corners
They bump, they scratch, they crack! As the most exposed part of any bag, corners are naturally more prone to wear. A quick check can reveal whether the bag has been gently used or has led a rougher life.
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Places of pressure
Lids, button clips, zippers, leather tabs, and handles! Really, anything that constantly moves while being carried, bent, opened, pressed, or twisted will naturally be places of use to look out for. Pockets and places with lining are particularly prone to holes, while wallets commonly develop cracks along the seams.
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Exposure to the elements
And don’t forget makeup! Check inside pockets and use a light to look for hidden damage like spilled glitter, coffee stains, written names, oil spill, or—worst of all—forgotten items like used q-tips. These stains and spills can be harder to clean and might indicate neglect or heavy use by the previous owner. So carefully inspect the interior for any signs of wear or mystery messes.
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The five senses
We shop with our hearts, but we pay with our money—so don’t just look! Use all of your senses to inspect the bag:
- Smell for unpleasant odors. Cigarette smell, for example, is notoriously hard to remove.
- Touch for stickiness or dryness—after all, you want a bag that feels good to use.
- Listen to the zippers and other moving parts. Do they sound smooth, or are there odd squeaks and resistance?
- Taste… well… maybe just use four senses!
By paying attention to every detail, you’ll be better equipped to decide which items are truly worth your hard-earned money—and which ones aren’t.
Modern vs vintage
Vintage and modern Louis Vuitton bags on ZenLuxe
Once you’re comfortable with checking date codes, it’ll be easy to tell its age. If the code indicates it’s from the 90’s but the bag looks new, that’s a potential red flag—though, who knows, you might have gotten lucky and stumbled upon a well-preserved gem. Here are some tells of age:
Some items have lived through 40 or more years, and just like humans, it shows! Leather, after all, is animal skin, and it reacts to the environment much like our own. If it’s too dry, it cracks. If it’s burned, it leaves scars. And if it’s exposed to chemicals or oils, it can develop stains.
These natural signs of aging give vintage pieces their character, but they can also highlight areas of concern. Look for cracks along seams, water spots, and uneven patina, as these tell a story of the bag’s life—and how well it’s been cared for.
Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Monogram Old Model on ZenLuxe
The most common signs of older items include a less mass-produced feel, darkened leather, and water marks that can range from small spots to noticeable stains. Vintage bags may also lack modern conveniences, such as dedicated phone pockets or card slots—after all, credit cards and smartphones weren’t around back then. Instead, you might find quirky features like compartments for old-school phones, checkbooks, or even cigarette holders, reflecting the era they were designed for.
Louis Vuitton Speedy 25 Monogram New Model on ZenLuxe
The lighter the leather, the newer it gets. Even if your item has been stored untouched in a dust bag for 30 years, natural humidity and oxygen exposure will cause white, untreated vachetta leather to darken over time—a process known as patina, which is a hallmark of authenticity rather than a flaw.
Fashion has evolved a lot since the 80’s, with each decade leaving a distinct mark on design trends. If you’re unsure of what era an item is from, simply look up photos of fashion magazines or advertisements from that period and you’ll quickly see how it fits in.
The more modern items will naturally look and smell newer, with features tailored to modern lifestyles. Gone are the key holders, in their place, you’ll find designated smartphone holders and laptop-friendly compartments. Backpacks now come in sizes like 13 or 15 inches to fit your macbooks, reflecting the tech-driven needs of today’s consumers.
Additionally, designer collaborations are more plentiful than ever, bringing bold, limited-edition styles to the forefront of fashion. However, while these trendy pieces may grab attention, remember that trend-driven designs can be fleeting, whereas classic styles are timeless.
Limited Editions Speedy on ZenLuxe
Super-fakes
Some fakes are better than others. For the untrained eye, as long as the logo isn’t misspelled, they might not notice a thing. However, for more experienced collectors, you can quickly see the quirks.
But some fakes are so good that even the top-tier authenticators could miss it. This is where your critical thinking skills come into play. Super fakes, as they’re called, are rarely seen in less to mid-priced designer bags as they don’t offer enough profit for counterfeiters. Instead, these high-quality replicas are reserved for the most popular and iconic brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, and many more.
If you find a beautiful Chanel Flap bag, with no damage, for $500, chances are it isn’t real. I’m not telling you to give up right away, but make sure you get the opinion of an expert before you drop big money on a deal that seems too good to be true.
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Compared to the real deal
Online photos are a good alternative, offering a convenient way to compare items. However, if you have a friend, family member who can help or if you can rent a real item from the brand you’re considering, it can help immensely in purchasing secondhand. It’s like preparing for a math exam, everything becomes easier when you have the answers in front of you.
You don’t have to be a professional authenticator to buy preloved luxury, in fact, even most professional buyers rely on experience and resources rather than a trained eye alone.
By keeping this cheat sheet handy and using a little critical thinking, you’ll come a long way very quickly.
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Consider your hunting grounds
Just like specialized websites come with a premium over eBay’s dodgy resellers, so do real-life boutiques. Some pre-loved boutiques are even pricier than the brand’s own stores, especially when they specialize in discontinued or rare items that are highly sought after by collectors.
Naturally, there’s a risk/reward factor at play. A good rule of thumb is to think about how an item ended up at the vendor. If it’s vintage, say from the 80s, why is it being sold now and not kept as collectible? In some smaller, more local stores, you can simply ask the clerk about the item’s history—they may have useful insights or details that can help you make a decision.
On the other hand, finding a more recent item, like one from the 2020s, in a small boutique raises different questions. Why wasn’t it sold online where it could fetch a higher price? Could it be counterfeit, stolen, or otherwise problematic? While there’s no harm in considering such items, it’s always worth pausing to question an item’s backstory before making a purchase. Being cautious could save you from an expensive mistake.
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Know what you want
If you’re hunting for an ONTHEGO, you can quickly rule out a lot of different venues. Having a clear target makes it much easier to be tactical. Instead of trying to master the tells of authenticity for an entire brand, focus specifically on the details of your desired item. For example, familiarize yourself with the stitching, logo placement, and common materials used for the ONTHEGO. By narrowing down your focus, you not only save time but also increase your confidence when evaluating potential finds.
Arm yourself with knowledge
Before going into the wild, it’s a good idea to window shop online on mainstream reselling platforms. Take note of the typical price range for the item you’re after. What’s the standard cost for a gently used version, and how much does the price decrease based on wear and tear? This knowledge will arm you with a solid benchmark for evaluating deals.
Now, let’s talk about strategy. Online, there’s no chance to bargain or inspect for hidden surprises—like someone’s old underwear tucked into a pocket (yes, it can happen!). But in person, these “surprises” become your bargaining tools. A strange spot? “Is that blood”? Being 10% more dramatic might just earn you a 10% discount.
By the time you’ve finished reading this article, you might even know more about this than the seller! So if the date code is missing but you can tell where it was removed, you have a pretty good argument for a juicy price drop.
And with all the money you saved, why not explore the wonderful selection of pre-loved luxury items at ZenLuxe? From high-end boutiques to budget-friendly vendors, ZenLuxe connects you with Japan’s best pre-loved luxury stores—all from the convenience of your phone. Why walk block to block when you can scroll, shop, and save? Happy hunting!
About The Writer
Magnus Paslawski has three years of professional experience as a re-seller and auctioneer of luxury goods. He currently does marketing for ZenPop.jp but is always up to date on the designer world. Read his previous designer bag blogs ZenLuxe Has a Birkin en Desordre and It’s Everything! and Why do people prefer luxury shopping in Japan?
