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Elsa Peretti, who would have turned 84 today, has left an enduring legacy during her nearly five-decade-long career as Tiffany & Co.'s jewelry designer. Her groundbreaking designs, which marry a unique, organic aesthetic with minimalist sensuality, have contributed to the massive popularity of the Tiffany & Co. brand, now impressively valued at approximately $7.3B.
The Dawn of an Icon
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Elsa Peretti's debut at Tiffany & Co. revolutionized the approach to jewelry design. Back in 1971, a full three years before her defining partnership, Peretti already carried herself with the charisma of a seasoned star.
At 5'9", the icon-to-be moved with the elegance of a model, dressed in a voguish tie-dye caftan by Halston. While seated elegantly on an Angelo Donghia chaise longue in her New York apartment, she shared with a journalist her guiding philosophy:
"You must have a lot of confidence but very little compromise with yourself."
Building a Fashion Empire From Scratch
Elsa Peretti, originally from Florence, Italy, received her education in Rome and Switzerland before returning to Rome to complete a degree in interior design. By the end of the 1960s, she had made a name for herself as a fashion model in New York and Barcelona and was also exploring jewelry design.
Her career took a significant turn when her creations were showcased by American fashion designer Giorgio di Sant’Angelo during a fashion show, where they received immediate and enthusiastic acclaim. During these formative years, Peretti also met Halston, the iconic designer with whom she would form a lasting friendship and a fruitful collaboration.
Iconic Designs That Keep Winning
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Three years after her passing, Elsa Peretti’s legacy continues through her distinctively sculptural and organic jewelry designs. Peretti's iconic designs remain as relevant and modern today as they were at their inception. Her legacy includes iconic designs such as the Tiffany T Bracelet, the Tiffany HardWear Bracelet, the Tiffany Heart Tag Pendant, the Tiffany Diamond Key Pendant, the Tiffany Setting, and the Tiffany 1837 Ring, to name a few.
These pioneering designs continue to be a valuable addition to any collection, whether displayed in an elegant jewelry box or beautifully adorning someone’s neck, ears, wrists, and fingers. “Her designs are as modern today as ever. This is a true testament to her artistic vision and genius,” remarked Anthony Ledru, Chief Executive Officer of Tiffany & Co.
A ‘Craftswoman’ Who Dazzles Global Icons
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Elsa Peretti's collections brought the world organic and sensual designs that captivated with their simple elegance. A skilled artisan, Peretti studied nature with the detail-oriented eye of a scientist and the expressive hand of a sculptor, though she humbly referred to herself as a "craftswoman."
She believed that her designs were shaped by common sense, famously stating,
"For me, good line and good form are timeless."
This philosophy infused her work with a timeless quality that continues to resonate in the world of jewelry design, attracting customers who eagerly seek her unique and previously unseen pieces.
New Rules for Wearing Jewelry
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Peretti enjoys global acclaim for her pioneering jewelry designs that merge powerful femininity with seamless elegance. Her iconic Bone cuff, molded in the shape of a wrist bone, is a timeless piece that exemplifies the organic sensuality of Peretti's design philosophy.
Peretti's revolutionary Diamonds by the Yard® collection, featuring delicate chains and bezel-set diamonds, radically transformed the daily wearability of diamonds into an all-day, everyday affair. She once noted her innovative diamond setting: “If diamonds are mounted like this, the light is different. They look like drops of light, like a stream—very modern.”
Continuing her line of innovative designs, Elsa Peretti's Open Heart collection is a true testament to her organic design ethos, celebrating the spirit of love with a one-of-a-kind aesthetic—a standout addition to any jewelry collection.
Moreover, Peretti's Snake and her signature Mesh jewelry underscore her mastery in creating pieces that drape and contour naturally with the body, enhancing both the wearer's silhouette and the brilliance of the stones.
A Legacy Worth Its Own Show?
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Actress Rebecca Dayan shared her thoughts on portraying Elsa Peretti in Netflix's Halston, acknowledging the fashion icon's significant impact and intriguing personal story. "Yes, in some sense," Dayan responded when asked if playing Peretti was intimidating.
The French actress elaborated on her experience portraying the iconic Italian designer, stating: “I knew her for her work, but I didn’t know about her life. It was fascinating to dive in. I think she deserves her own show [laughs]. It’s incredible what she’s been through and what she had to sacrifice. It was the early 1960s—she left her family and decided she was going to be a model, and then a designer.”
Award-Winning Jewelry in the Hall of Fame
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Elsa Peretti's enduring legacy in the world of jewelry design is marked by significant recognition and honors. In appreciation of her illustrious career, Tiffany & Co. established the Elsa Peretti Professorship in Jewelry Design at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), which is notably the first endowed professorship in FIT's history.
Her accolades include receiving the 1971 Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award for Jewelry and the Rhode Island School of Design President’s Fellow Award in 1981. Further cementing her status as a leading figure in design, the Council of Fashion Designers of America named her Accessory Designer of the Year in 1996.
Elsa Peretti’s designs have not only captivated fashion and jewelry enthusiasts but have also been recognized as art, with pieces included in the permanent collections of prestigious institutions such as the British Museum in London, The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, and the Museums of Fine Arts in both Boston, Massachusetts, and Houston, Texas. Not to mention, in 2001, FIT awarded the designer an honorary Doctor of Fine Arts degree.
Preserving Beauty, Inside and Out
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Nature was a constant source of inspiration for Elsa Peretti, who dedicated her life to repaying the world that had fueled her creativity. She strongly believed in humanity's responsibility to nurture and protect our planet, expressing, “We could do so much better. I’m trying to do something good.”
The world continues to celebrate the life and achievements of Elsa Peretti, who has been a member of the Tiffany family since 1974. Elsa revolutionized the jewelry design industry with her innovative approach, forever changing the way we adorn ourselves with jewelry. Born in 1940 and passing away at age 80 in 2021, her legacy will continue to inspire and impact for generations to come.
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer with a geek-level enthusiasm for all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of life isn't just shopping for and wearing the latest styles—it’s fully experiencing the glamorous world of fashion (because who doesn’t enjoy flipping through a glossy fashion magazine?).
