All Eyes on Big Eyes: Baby-Doll Is Officially Fall’s Most Defining Aesthetic

(Courtesy of Vogue)

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It’s officially a fall of big eyes and bigger imagination. 

After seasons of bare-faced minimalism, the pendulum is slowly but surely swinging toward drama and storytelling—and this time, the character is unapologetically doll-like. The vibe blends childhood nostalgia with couture-level polish: glossy, exacting, a little surreal, and impossible to look away from.

Marc Jacobs set the fashion world ablaze this year with his surreal, baby-doll–inspired Courage collection, shaping the mood for cheeky-meets-sweet revolution that refuses to lose momentum. 

Pinterest’s fall trends report shows a massive 4000%+ spike for the ’60s baby-doll aesthetic. Rounded blush, flipped-out bobs, and razor-sharp cut creases are trending hard, with searches for “Bratz doll aesthetic” suddenly climbing on Google. Translation? All eyes on big eyes, and it’s the perfect time to lean into the nostalgic fashion and give your look a fresh update.

Marc Jacobs Turns the Babydoll Into High-Drama Fantasy

(Courtesy of ELLE)

Designers aren’t holding back when it comes to the babydoll this season. The tide is turning away from the strict clean-girl aesthetic and into something louder, bolder, and far more daring. 

Runways leaned into airy gathers, sheer layers, and sculpted ruffles; some houses toughened the sweetness with crisp waists or intricate embroidery, while others went modern with voluminous tops anchored by flat, chunky shoes.

The unapologetic wave picked up momentum early when Marc Jacobs continued his paper-doll fantasy with yet another out-of-the-box collection. 

(Courtesy of ELLE)

Titled Courage, his spring runway pushed the babydoll revival into bold, revolutionary territory. Think statement red lips, perfectly undone hair, dramatic polka dots, and layers of puff, puff, puffed-up silhouettes.

In his note, Marc Jacobs shared that humility, gratitude, and heart had taught him to view fear not as opposition but as a “necessary companion to creativity, authenticity, integrity and life.”

(Courtesy of ELLE)

He went on: “With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation, daring to be vulnerable in the face of criticism and failure, not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand and confront it — exploring through curiosity, conviction, compassion and love.”

Jacobs’s embrace of the doll aesthetic reflected a philosophy long rooted in his history and distinct creative code. Fearlessness and self-belief once again guided him to stretch fashion beyond the familiar.

Fresh Takes on the Babydoll Sweeps the Runways

(Courtesy of Vogue)

When Marc Jacobs officially kicked off the baby-doll wave this year, it didn’t take long for other designers to follow suit. Of course, part of the babydoll’s appeal is the way each house makes it their own—keeping things lively, fresh, and strikingly distinct from one another.

Chloé’s version felt dreamy and romantic, with flowing fabrics and ruffled details that made the silhouette light as air. Valentino, never one for subtlety, added layered lace in bold contrasts, anchoring the look with cinched waists and rich embroidery for full-on drama. 

For Cecilie Bahnsen, the babydoll became a study in imperfection’s quiet beauty. The runway offered sculpted yet weightless dresses, heavy sneakers, miniskirts that she herself noted were “shorter than ever and poofier than ever,” and a notable expansion of outerwear — a segment she continues to grow each season.

Olivia Rodrigo Makes Baby Doll Fall Official

(Courtesy of Vogue)

Celebrities aren’t waiting to catch the first wave of doll-inspired style. Olivia Rodrigo sealed Baby Doll Fall at Vas J. Morgan’s post-Emmys party, skipping the red carpet glitz for a softer, easy-chic vibe.

The singer opted for a black scoop-neck babydoll dress with ruffled sleeves and a matching bow-tied waist. Her thigh-skimming minidress looked even longer thanks to heeled black patent Mary Janes. A JW Anderson Bumper bag completed the monochrome palette, broken cleverly by a pink-red lip.

Babydoll’s Journey From Sultry Nightwear to Couture Darling

(Courtesy of HELLO! Magazine)

The babydoll started life in the 1950s as flirty lingerie before drifting in and out of view—romantic layers in the ’70s, girlish frills in the ’90s, and a full-blown Y2K wave. 

Each revival brought its own tweaks, but the DNA stayed the same: easy wear, feather-light movement, and a little wink of mischief. 

The romantic babydoll owes much of its origin to Sylvia Pedlar, the American lingerie designer who rose to prominence in the mid-20th century. Famous for reworking historic forms into elegant nightwear, she is credited with introducing the loose, short dress as lingerie that turned heads far beyond the bedroom.

Why the BabyDoll Trend Clicks Now

(Courtesy of WWD)

In times of uncertainty, people reach for familiar comforts and playful control. Doll-inspired aesthetic offers exactly that—hair that feels fun again, silhouettes traced with dreamy lines, glossy textures, and a dose of unapologetic drama. Makeup breaks the rules on purpose, leaving room for the inner child to run the show.

This dolly revival ties directly to the rise of all things girly, says Carolyn Mair, professor, author of The Psychology of Fashion, and founder of consultancy Psychology Fashion.

More intriguing still is how far the trend has gone: past the dainty bows, ballet flats, and puffed-up dresses, the theme is being carried into the fantastical.

“It’s one thing after another: the climate and the politics and the wars and everything else that’s going on in the world,” Mair told Vogue. “We all have an inner child, psychologically. We want to return to that in times of stress.”

How to Nail the Babydoll Look Every Single Time

(Courtesy of Wonderland Magazine)

• Easy breezy delicate dress: an instant shortcut to the babydoll mood—just ask Sabrina Carpenter.
• Tailored grounding: straight or slim trousers, stovepipe denim, or a streamlined pencil/column skirt keep proportions sharp.
  
• Structured toppers: cropped leather jackets, sleek blazers, or clean cardigans add definition through the shoulders and waist.
  
• Footwear that sets the tone: ballet flats and slingbacks read romantic; loafers and ankle boots add polish; low-profile sneakers give it street energy.
  
• Understated bag strategy: small and structured beats oversized and slouchy—the babydoll silhouette brings enough drama on its own. A micro Lady Dior nails it with its charming box shape and just enough space for the essentials.

Fit Details That Make or Break the Babydoll Look

(Courtesy of Vogue Business)

• Empire seam placement: a seam that sits just under the bust lifts and lengthens. Push it too high, and suddenly the look reads more childish than chic.
  
• Length: hip-skimming feels current, tunic-long plays nicely with leggings or slim skirts, and cropped versions shine with high-rise bottoms.
  
• Necklines & sleeves: a square or scoop neckline highlights the collarbones, puff or tie straps bring in romance, and slim long sleeves balance all that volume.
• Fabric choice: matte crepe and cotton voile feel effortless, chiffon and organza add airy lightness for evening, while jacquard or faille give structure with a sculpted edge.

5 Easy Babydoll Aesthetics Worth Trying This Season

(Courtesy of Robert via Pinterest)

1. Clean Romantic: white cotton babydoll dress + slingbacks + simple jewelry and perfectly undone hair for a hint of innocence.
   
2. Downtown Sweet-Tough: satin dress + cropped moto jacket + platform loafers + mini box bag. A red lip keeps it sharp.
   
3. ’90s Throwback: ditsy-print top + bias skirt + delicate flats. Minimal makeup, a micro shoulder bag.
   
4. Office-Appropriate: structured babydoll blouse (no ruffles) + cigarette pants + pointed flats. Add a neat blazer.
   
5. Street-Casual: puff-sleeve cropped blouse + rigid jeans + chunky sneakers. A satin ribbon hair tie softens the look.

Babydoll Color & Print Cheat Sheet

(Courtesy of FashionUnited)

• Monochrome black looks instantly sophisticated and photographs like a dream.
  
• Soft neutrals (ivory, taupe, blush) lean romantic without tipping into costume territory.
• White is probably the purest expression of the babydoll aesthetic!
  
• Candy-bright colors give the babydoll silhouette a high-fashion twist—pick one standout shade and let everything else stay muted.
  
• Micro florals lend the babydoll a soft, retro charm without overwhelming the silhouette.
• Bold graphics transform the look from nostalgic to unapologetically modern.
• Stripes can surprise as the silhouette holds its structure.

A Smart Babydoll Shopping Checklist

(Courtesy of Bunni3 / Runway Chic / Olivia Krause)

• Seam placement that sits just under the bust, not on it.
  
• Fabric has enough body to hold shape (because nothing kills the look faster than a flimsy, see-through accident!)
  
• Length that works with your most-worn bottoms.
  
• Details that feel intentional—one standout (ruffle, bow, lace) is elegant; too many may feel costume-y.
  
• Try the jacket test: throw on a blazer or cropped jacket—If your babydoll top collapses or bunches, size up or switch fabric.

The Babydoll Wave Is the Perfect Excuse to Refresh Your Wardrobe—Here’s How

(Courtesy of Vogue)

Is the babydoll aesthetic sticking around? For now, the answer leans yes—which means it’s time to build a wardrobe worthy of the doll wave. Miu Miu’s sweet-but-structured dresses and Chloé’s ethereal dresses nail the doll-like mood, while Chanel’s iconic pumps perfect the look in a snap.

Pair them with a Louis Vuitton Alma BB in Vernis for that glossy, toy-chest shine, or soften the look with a Fendi Baguette or Peekaboo in a pastel—both make the whole outfit feel light, collectible, and perfectly dolly.

You can score all of these doll-coded luxury picks second-hand on ZenLuxe, a Japan-based secondhand market offering an extensive collection of authentic, pre-loved pieces from the world’s top fashion houses.

Enjoy the thrill of luxury shopping all in one place—every piece authenticated, priced below retail, truly pre-loved, and ready to be ordered and shipped straight to your doorstep!

About The Writer

Meet Mariam — a fashion writer who lives and breathes all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores; it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (there's nothing quite like the thrill of flipping through a sleek fashion magazine, is there?).