Image by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
Always ahead of the curve, Francesca Amfitheatrof has shattered centuries-old norms in the luxury market, echoing through Place Vendôme and deep into the heart of Paris. “I have very little interest in recreating something that already exists,” declares the 56-year-old artistic director of watches and jewelry at Louis Vuitton, who also made history as Tiffany & Co.’s first female design director.
When the French luxury house offered her this coveted position, Francesca Amfitheatrof didn’t hesitate for a moment. In fact, she saw it as a mountain to climb, explaining, “Somebody shows you a mountain and you either look at it and go, ‘Oh my god, I can’t do this,’ or you can’t wait to get to the top. I want that view from the top. It’s a better view.” And indeed, she has proven that the view is spectacular.
New rules at Louis Vuitton
Image by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
Growing up in Tokyo in a multicultural family, Francesca Amfitheatrof was soaked in the diverse cultures of New York, London, and Rome, which shaped her unique artistic vision from an early age.
Her journey into the sparkling world of jewelry started unexpectedly with an O-Level art project, which led her to pursue further education at prestigious institutions like Central Saint Martins and Chelsea College of Arts.
Francesca Amfitheatrof's exceptional talent in three-dimensional design quickly gained the admiration of fashion legends Karl Lagerfeld and Giorgio Armani. Justifiably, she soon secured the prestigious role of design director at Tiffany & Co. in 2014 and is now at the esteemed French luxury house Louis Vuitton.
At its core, Louis Vuitton embodies a spirit of adventure, a legacy dating back to its 1854 origins with trunk-maker Louis Vuitton himself. Francesca Amfitheatrof, who calls Connecticut home along with her husband Ben Curwin and their children Niko and Stella May, feels that Louis Vuitton’s work culture perfectly fits her lifestyle.
Amfitheatrof travels to Paris monthly to lead her team while enjoying breaks at their extraordinary holiday home on Ventotene, an Italian island where their house is remarkably built inside a cave. “Vuitton is a company based on travel,” she remarks, “And I’m a born nomad. It’s also a company that values creativity while giving you a lot of freedom. So if you’re someone with confidence and vision, it’s an amazing place to create.”
From fine to high jewelry, is there anything she can't do?
Image by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
After taking over as Louis Vuitton's artistic director for watches and jewelry in 2018, Francesca Amfitheatrof immediately started shaking things up. Her “B Blossom” fine jewelry collection, launched in 2018, has become a signature piece in LV’s luxury lineup.
This exquisite collection features elegant rings, cuffs, earrings, bracelets, chain necklaces, and pendants, each adorned with a modern reinterpretation of the “Monogram Flower,” designed initially by Georges Vuitton in 1896.
In July 2019, Francesca Amfitheatrof launched her first high jewelry collection for Louis Vuitton, the "Riders of the Knights." The collection draws inspiration from the formidable heroines of medieval times, celebrating their ability to control their fates with bravery and fortitude. “I was thinking of women like Joan of Arc, Queen Elizabeth of England or Eleanor of Aquitaine. I wanted to capture the idea of strength through chains, armour, amulets and even swords,” Amfitheatrof explains.
Francesca Amfitheatrof beautifully captures the essence of determination and independence through her designs, carefully selecting only the finest gemstones that she believes mirror the grace of medieval heroines. "Louis Vuitton is a strong brand, so it needs a strong look,” she emphasizes.
In 2020, Francesca Amfitheatrof launched the “LV Volt” fine jewelry collection for Louis Vuitton, ingeniously reimagining the iconic 'L' and 'V' into modern symbols of style and luxury. The result was nothing short of remarkable: Amfitheatrof's imagination shines through in every piece of the collection—from rings and bracelets to earrings and necklaces—all crafted with the bold architectural flair she’s renowned for.
The “LV Volt” embodies a dynamic interpretation of the Maison's iconic initials, where they unite, separate, and intertwine. As edgy as the Maison dares to be, the gender-neutral collection pays homage to classic elegance while boldly redefining Louis Vuitton's fine jewelry, leaving admirers wondering what Francesca will unveil next.
Speaking of her next innovation, Francesca Amfitheatrof unveiled the "Bravery" High Jewelry collection in 2021, launched by Louis Vuitton to commemorate the house's 200th anniversary. The three-year journey to source the finest sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds resulted in 90 standout pieces, each celebrating Louis Vuitton's storied opulence.
Louis Vuitton's “Bravery” high jewelry collection.
Images by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
In July 2022, Francesca Amfitheatrof debuted the Louis Vuitton “Spirit” high jewelry collection, which showcased 125 stunning pieces across five key themes: Radiance, Liberty, Destiny, Fantasy, and Grace. The line daringly captures the Maison’s essence, merging the mythological valor with the contemporary values of liberty, endurance, and infinity, alongside the ideals of destiny and rising above.
Francesca Amfitheatrof's fifth high jewelry collection launched in 2023, “Deep Time,” presents an ambitious narrative spanning the genesis of the planet to the dawn of life. With 170 meticulously crafted pieces, the collection explores transformation, life, and terrestrial heritage themes, reflecting her creative brilliance through spectacular gemstones and innovative designs.
In the same year, Amfitheatrof expanded the “Blossom” fine jewelry collection by introducing “Ombre Blossom.” The new series creatively reinterprets Louis Vuitton's iconic Monogram star-shaped Flower, merging traditional motifs with contemporary aesthetics.
In one of her most recent creations in 2024, Francesca Amfitheatrof introduced her sixth high jewelry collection for Louis Vuitton, “Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds,” which pays tribute to the evolution of French craftsmanship.
The collection blends classic luxury with a bold 19th-century spirit through 100 extraordinary creations that captivate the senses—just another reminder of why LV entrusted Amfitheatrof with its legacy.
“Design, and refine, refine, refine.”
Image by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
A real genius always approaches things differently. Francesca Amfitheatrof’s approach to jewelry design boils down to two things: originality and excellence in execution. All it takes is one theme to spark her imagination, and she’ll spend weeks of intense research to fully grasp the concept.
Her next step involves developing mood boards to crystallize her concepts before presenting them to her design team, emphasizing, “I need something that is going to completely transform me.”
For Francesca Amfitheatrofm, creating the iconic Louis Vuitton jewelry pieces is a rigorous two-year process that begins with inspirational journeys to breathtaking locations. Being anything but an average designer, she works closely with experts whose insights keep the creative juices flowing.
“We create through experience, not through books,” Amfitheatrof states. “I don’t allow Pinterest. I want everything to feel like it’s happened because we’ve experienced something truly original. Then, we divide the stones, design, and refine, refine, refine.”
Amfitheatrof attributes the global fascination with Louis Vuitton’s jewelry to its bold approach, never intimidated by risks. “Our jewelry tends to take more risks from a design point of view,” she explains. “They’re unusual, very contemporary, but not hard or stiff– they are still very flamboyant.”
First woman at Tiffany & Co.
Image by Centurion Magazine
Before she even joined Louis Vuitton, Francesca Amfitheatrof was already on the wishlist of major design houses. At Tiffany & Co., she broke new ground as the first woman to take on the role of design director in 2014, introducing the famous “Tiffany T” collection after her arrival.
Entrusted with Tiffany & Co's 177-year legacy, Francesca Amfitheatrof drew inspiration from the lively spirit of Holly Golightly's New York, infusing that vibrant energy into the bold, graphic designs of the "Tiffany T" collection.
“I wanted to create a symbol for modern life and its relentless energy that flows through New York and drives art and culture around the world. The letter ‘T’ is sculptural and bold, and very closely linked to the architecture of the city,” Amfitheatrof explains.
With her renowned genius, she morphed the letter “T” into a marvel of fashion engineering. This brilliant transformation shines through the sophisticated mechanisms of the collection's bracelets, chains, and cuffs. “I’m obsessed with form and function and it seems to me that because metal is so malleable and changeable, you can do anything with it,” she enthusiastically shares.
The “Tiffany T” collection marked a monumental success, and really, what's not to love about it? Embodying everything Tiffany & Co. stands for—courage, strength, and optimism—the “Tiffany T” collection also flaunts a gorgeous aesthetic in every piece, mirroring Francesca Amfitheatrof's bold, fearless approach to jewelry design.
Amfitheatrof was also the creative force behind Tiffany & Co.’s Fall 2015 ad campaign, launching three exquisite jewelry collections: Tiffany Victoria, Tiffany Bow, and Tiffany Infinity.
The Tiffany Victoria collection features round and pear-shaped diamonds arranged like delicate flower petals, while the Tiffany Bow evokes the sentimental thread tied around a finger as a symbol of remembrance. The Tiffany Infinity collection offers a fresh take on the classic infinity symbol, featuring modern contours that symbolize vitality and endless energy. These pieces blend beautifully into daily wear, giving the impression of thoughtful styling without any extra effort.
Francesca Amfitheatrof brought a unique cool factor to Tiffany & Co. during her tenure, designing some of its most iconic collections like "Return to Love" (2016), "1837" (2017), "Collectibles" (2017), and "Sweet Nothings" (2017).
Another noteworthy accomplishment was her strategic repositioning of the Tiffany Blue Book Collection within the haute joaillerie sector, which significantly elevated its status in the luxury market. This revamped collection included 250 unique pieces, each underpinned by captivating themes such as "The Art of the Sea" (2015), "The Art of Transformation" (2016), and "The Art of the Wild" (2017).
Francesca Amfitheatrof’s four-year tenure at the brand was remarkably successful. In 2017, the first-ever female design director rolled out the iconic Tiffany “HardWear” collection, famously choosing Lady Gaga for its ad campaign.
Tiffany & Co. — Introducing Lady Gaga for Tiffany HardWear
The HardWear collection began with a single bracelet featuring stark, raw designs inspired by a 1962 concept of Manhattan: a city characterized by constant change, liberated inhibitions, and evolving meanings of love.
Despite Tiffany & Co.'s established prestige, Francesca Amfitheatrof managed to redefine its identity in haute joaillerie. Her innovative spirit breathed fresh life into the brand, with her statement-making designs becoming synonymous with red-carpet glamour.
Cate Blanchett turned heads with a turquoise beaded necklace at the 87th Academy Awards and stunning diamond drop earrings the following year. At the 89th Academy Awards, Emma Stone and Jessica Biel captivated audiences by wearing pieces from Amfitheatrof’s "Whispers of the Rainforest" collection, while stars like Reese Witherspoon and Jennifer Garner remain loyal fans of her timeless creations.
The not-so-sparkly side of making LV jewelry
Image by @francescaamfitheatrof via Instagram
While Francesca Amfitheatrof's flawless jewelry designs might give the impression that everything comes easily to her, the reality is she faces significant hurdles in designing Louis Vuitton jewelry (because, really, how stress-free can it be to maintain such high standards?).
The biggest hurdle in her creative process, Amfitheatrof admits, is her aversion to repetition. “I don’t like repetition. I want to be constantly stimulated and I want to be drawn into an adventure,” she says.
Francesca’s formula for success? Continually pushing boundaries and not resting on past achievements. “It’s important that we don’t sort of sit on our laurels,” she stresses. “I’m very conscious of the fact that we need to check ourselves to always feel fresh and that we’re offering something a little bit surprising.”
Battling the beast of repetition, Amfitheatrof ensures every Louis Vuitton jewelry collection is anything but predictable. Now, it’s almost taken for granted that Amfitheatrof will keep delivering surprises and breaking the mold, continually setting (never following!) trends rends in haute joaillerie.
Why A-Listers can't say ‘no’ to Louis Vuitton
Cate Blanchett, adorned with a gemstone-studded wide cuff from Louis Vuitton, clinched the 2023 Critics’ Choice Best Actress Award for her role in Tár.
Image by South China Morning Post
Angelina Jolie, Madonna, Cate Blanchett, Rihanna, Paris Hilton, and the beloved duo David and Victoria Beckham—what do they all have in common? A shared love for Louis Vuitton. Whether stepping out with sleek LV handbags or adorning themselves with standout pieces from recent collections, A-listers prove that when it comes to classic and avant-garde fashion, Louis Vuitton is in a league of its own.
For six years in a row, between 2006 and 2012, Louis Vuitton stood at the pinnacle of luxury brands worldwide— and justifiably so. From meticulously crafted handbags and elegant shoes to exquisite jewelry, precise watches, and even fashionable backpacks, the brand's commitment to quality and diverse offerings cements its status as a leader in the high-end market.
However, starting a Louis Vuitton collection can seem out of reach due to the high prices tied to their premium quality. A savvy alternative? Second-hand luxury fashion. And no, the thought of worn-out clothes you might picture is far from true; in fact, the pristine condition of many pre-owned luxury pieces often makes you question if "second-hand" is even the appropriate term.
If you're not sure where to shop for preloved luxury items, online platforms like ZenLuxe could be a complete game-changer. With an extensive, curated collection of pre-owned high-end offerings that look exactly brand-new, it’s now possible to shop and fill your closet with LV’s finest without constantly stressing over your bank balance. Plus, in 2025, shopping preloved isn't just acceptable—it's a celebrity-endorsed trend that’s here to stay!
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer with a geek-level enthusiasm for all things vogue and glamor. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (because who doesn’t enjoy flipping through a glossy fashion magazine?).
