Audrey Hepburn famously wore the Ribbon Rosette necklace, a lavish piece designed by Jean Schlumberger, on the set of Breakfast at Tiffany's. (Photos courtesy of Only Natural Diamonds)
History honors Jean Schlumberger (1907–1987) as a legendary figure in jewelry design, renowned for his extraordinary ability to turn raw elements of nature into breathtaking jewelry. His pieces often showcased an imaginative blend of exotic plants, deep-sea shells, and mythical birds, creating a distinctive aesthetic that's hard to take your eyes off.
Schlumberger's exceptional creations stand as shining examples of his ingenuity and the unparalleled craftsmanship of Tiffany & Co., qualities that have defined the prestigious house since 1837.
The famed Tiffany’s jeweler once remarked:
Artistic Awakening in the Heart of Paris
Jean Schlumberger was the visionary behind Tiffany & Co.’s most breathtaking jewelry inspired by the unrefined beauty of nature. (Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Born in 1907 into a distinguished family of textile manufacturers in Alsace, France, Jean Schlumberger displayed a natural aptitude for drawing early on. Despite his remarkable knack for sketching, his parents, seeking a more traditional path for him, sent him to Berlin in the 1930s to pursue a career in banking. Schlumberger, however, dreamed of a more extraordinary life, one illuminated by the brilliance of gold and diamonds.
In his early 20s, Schlumberger relocated to Paris to refine his artistic talent. This move set the stage for a momentous partnership with Tiffany & Co. that started in 1956, when Walter Hoving, then the chairman, invited Schlumberger to become vice president of the company. Schlumberger accepted the offer—a golden handshake that forever changed the course of jewelry design.
A Self-Taught Genius
(Photos courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Schlumberger securing a prestigious role at Tiffany was no stroke of luck. Remarkably, every one of his magnificent jewelry pieces started as a simple drawing, and even more notably, he was a completely self-taught artist who never received any formal training.
“Tiffany were geniuses to pick him up,” commented Frank Everett, the sales director of Sotheby's New York jewelry department. “They made him and he made them.”
The legendary Tiffany jeweler worked with smooth, ultrafine tracing paper, pen, and India ink, employing the gouache technique to create continuous, fluid lines that shaped his pioneering designs and motifs.
In 1995, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs was generously gifted over 3,000 Schlumberger drawings, significantly enhancing the Drawings Department's collection of jewelry design masterpieces.
Schlumberger's Bird on a Rock—A Soaring Success
(Photos courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Since its debut by Tiffany & Co. in 1965, Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock has been a timeless emblem of joy, freedom, and endless possibilities. The initial spark for the design ignited when Schlumberger encountered a yellow cockatoo—a bird symbolizing joy like no other, inspiring the creation of the iconic motif.
Schlumberger's instantly recognizable bird has found its place atop the world’s most remarkable diamonds and vibrant gemstones, including the iconic Tiffany Diamond. Years have not dulled the sparkle of the Bird on a Rock, which is now expanded into a stunning collection of necklaces, earrings, pendants, and rings—though the brooch remains the quintessential representation of the design.
One Man, Sixteen Stones
(Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Introduced in 1959 as a wedding ring, the Sixteen Stone design by Jean Schlumberger is a testament to his legendary artistry—proof that true brilliance never fades.
Drawing from his family’s textile-making legacy in France, Schlumberger’s creations speak volumes about his ingenuity, transforming metals into stunning designs of ropes, tassels, ribbons, and intricate cross-stitches.
The Sixteen Stone ring, a true marvel in its own right, exudes magnificence that has long fascinated the world's elites. Perfectly balanced, the ring features eight cross-stitches intricately set among 16 diamonds, offering a breathtaking view from every angle.
The Legendary Paillonné Enamel Creations
(Photos courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
Jean Schlumberger’s signature Paillonné enamel showcases a labor-intensive 19th-century technique that layers translucent enamel over 18k yellow gold. The enamel is fired multiple times on delicate sheets of gold foil, creating rich, vibrant hues with remarkable depth.
The vibrant colors of nature and rare materials were the perfect duo for Schlumberger to create one of his most iconic jewelry pieces: the Croisillon enamel bracelet. Debuted in 1962, this marvelous creation mirrors Schlumberger's passion for color and shape, matched with his legendary, flawless execution.
With their vivid enamel, gold details, and sparkling gemstones, Schlumberger’s creations are widely regarded as some of the most iconic jewelry designs ever made, continuing to inspire awe today——and, as one might expect, for all eternity.
A Career Crowned with Prestigious Awards
(Photos courtesy of Tiffany & Co.)
The brilliance of Schlumberger’s work has been a constant highlight in the art and fashion scene, earning him a wealth of prestigious honors and awards over the course of his career. He was the first jewelry designer to receive the prestigious Fashion Critics’ Coty Award in 1958, and in 1977, the French government honored him with the title of Chevalier of the National Order of Merit.
In 1995, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, which displays many of Schlumberger's original designs, paid homage to his legacy with a retrospective named “Un Diamant dans la Ville.” This posthumous honor marked only the third time the museum had celebrated a jewelry designer in such a manner.
Later in his life, Schlumberger made his way back to Paris, a city where his passion for art had once sparked. He passed away in 1987 at the age of 80, leaving behind a rich legacy of ethereal birds, mesmerizing marine life, and ornate botanicals, all radiating an everlasting splendor.
Tiffany & Co: A Legacy Beyond Schlumberger
(Photo courtesy of Harper's BAZAAR)
The legendary designs of Jean Schlumberger will always be a part of Tiffany & Co., though they represent just a fragment of this iconic American luxury jewelry house. In its nearly two-century legacy, Tiffany & Co. has consistently dazzled the world with its pioneering jewelry designs, earning the moniker "The Diamond Kings" in the media. This coveted title was inspired by founder Charles Lewis Tiffany, who was the first to introduce major gemstones to the U.S.
Consistently upholding its prestigious image, the brand has crafted numerous awe-inspiring jewelry pieces, all of which showcase Tiffany's commitment to innovation and superior craftsmanship.
If you're eager to explore both classic and modern offerings from Tiffany & Co., ZenLuxe is an online platform where you can find authentic second-hand pieces at a fraction of the original cost. Don't be misled by the term “second hand,” though; these jewelry pieces are in such pristine condition that it defies the usual expectations.
Why choose ZenLuxe? Beyond offering an enjoyable shopping experience for Tiffany (and other luxury brands), ZenLuxe also guarantees fast and convenient delivery right to your doorstep—understandably, the thrill of hunting down luxury jewelry shouldn't be dulled by a lengthy wait!
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer who lives and breathes all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (there's nothing quite like the thrill of flipping through a sleek fashion magazine, is there?).
