The Wild History of Cartier's Emblematic Panther

A panther stands in front of a Cartier boutique, looking closely at the display window that showcases the brand's exquisite jewelry. - (Image courtesy of Ŧhe ₵oincidental Ðandy)

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What started as a humble artistic representation of a feline has now ascended to global fame, majestically adoring the world's top celebrities and royals. With values soaring into millions of dollars per piece, Cartier's Panthère, quite fittingly, 'scattered' its fierce charm across the globe. A symbol of rare and wild beauty, this pure-bred animal has reigned supreme at the French luxury house from its first roar in the 20th century to the present day.

While you can spot the Maison's emblem in various dazzling creations throughout its rich history, a closer look at Cartier's panther-inspired jewelry reveals one fascinating trend: each piece consistently surpasses the last, with every new design exceeding the brilliance of its predecessor.

1910s: The First Roar

Cartier's initial debut of the panther design on a ladies' wristwatch featuring elegant onyx and diamonds. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

The panther pattern first dazzled the world in 1914, debuting on a ladies' wristwatch crafted from onyx and diamonds. That year, Louis Cartier also enlisted George Barbier to create the Lady With a Panther illustration. True to his reputation, French illustrator Barbier delivered stunning artwork for the firm's promotions, depicting a woman in a stylish Poiret gown with a panther gloriously lying at her feet.

Legends has it that Jeanne Toussaint, the then-director of Cartier Jewelry, was inspired by a chance encounter with a panther during a safari with Louis Cartier. Her fierce style and vivid imagination helped solidify the image of magnificent felines as the very emblem of Cartier.

The Maison reached a significant milestone in 1917 when Louis Cartier presented Jeanne Toussaint with a luxurious cigarette case made of diamonds, onyx, and platinum, featuring the first-ever figurative representation of a panther.

1920s: Smoking Like a Prince—the Cartier Way

A panther-patterned cigarette case and lighter in gold and black enamel, originally acquired by the Prince of Nepal. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

Cartier’s Big Cat enjoyed a series of prestigious moments in the 1920s, highlighted by the 1928 introduction of their esteemed Panther brooch. This exquisite piece featured a blend of diamonds and black enamel spots, elegantly set in platinum and mounted on a coral and black enamel base. It showcases Cartier's exceptional craftsmanship and celebrates its majestic motif, symbolizing the luxury and creativity of the time.

In the same year, the Prince of Nepal invested in a matching set—a panther-patterned cigarette case and lighter in gold and black enamel, embodying the same opulent design ethos and further cementing the panther's association with exceptional individuals.

1930s: The First of Its Kind

A ring showcasing two three-dimensional panthers, crafted in yellow gold and black enamel, centered with a star ruby. This piece marks the first time the panther motif was depicted in three dimensions. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

The 1930s heralded a pivotal chapter in the evolution of Cartier's emblematic designs, with the iconic panther motif roaring even louder into the haute joaillerie scene. In the first year of the decade, the French luxury house unveiled an exquisite bracelet adorned with coral beads, complete with a dazzling panther-patterned clasp of diamonds and onyx.

Continuing its streak of extraordinary creations, in 1935, Cartier introduced a lavish ring that featured two panthers in yellow gold and black enamel, encircling a central star ruby. This remarkable piece marked a significant milestone, featuring the first-ever three-dimensional, vivid depiction of the panther.

1940s: The Duchess and Her Cartier Jewels

The Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, looks joyously content while wearing her luxurious panther bracelet. Created in Paris in 1952, this rare and exquisite piece was later sold for $7 million. - (Image courtesy of Adastra Jewelry)

During its golden age in the 1940s, the iconic Panther motif charmed its way into royal circles, who couldn’t help but fall head over heels for its untamed beauty. Cartier achieved a significant milestone and a boost in status in 1948 by crafting the exquisite Panther brooch in yellow gold, emeralds, and black enamel for the Duchess of Windsor. This remarkable piece was the first to depict the panther in full glory, establishing the French luxury house as a trailblazer that reshaped the era.

In addition to the brooch, Wallis Simpson also commissioned a gorgeous pair of panther-themed earrings, which she later modified to better suit her style. 

The Duchess of Windsor, evidently smitten, added to her collection in 1949 with a spectacular three-dimensional panther brooch. This piece was lavishly set with pavé sapphires and diamonds in shades of white and yellow, perched atop a grand 152.35-carat sapphire cabochon.

• The Big Cat is worth millions! In 2010, Cartier’s Panthère collection made headlines worldwide when a lavish diamond and onyx panther bracelet, once belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, sold for a record-breaking 4.5 million pounds ($7 million). The event marked the highest auction price ever achieved for both a bracelet and a Cartier piece.

1950s: Prince Aga Khan Indulges in Cartier

The Aga Khan Emerald, a Cartier brooch featuring a 37.00-carat square-shaped emerald, marquise diamonds, platinum, and 18k yellow gold, displayed during a press preview in Geneva. Known as the world's most expensive green stone, the magnificent piece fetched a record $9 million at auction. - (Image courtesy of CBS News)

Cartier's claim to the title "King of Jewelry and the Jeweler of Kings" was clearly justified in 1958, a year marked by prestigious commissions from Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan. The house's superior craftsmanship was on full display with the debut of the first panther-head earrings, beautifully set with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds—a perfect addition to the Prince’s lavish jewelry collection.

The Prince also commissioned a transformable panther brooch, notable for its articulated head and legs, designed to double as a clasp on a pearl necklace. His fascination with the motif extended to a double panther-head hinged bangle, equally opulent in its use of diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds.

• Did you know? On one Christmas Eve, Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan gifted Princess Catherine a stunning jeweled box from Cartier dating back to the 1920s. This gift marked the beginning of their extraordinary collection of Art Deco masterpieces, showcasing the jeweler's art at its most exquisite and inventive period.

1960s: Capturing the Era's Glam

A Cartier bracelet commissioned by María Félix features two overlapping panthers with articulated heads and legs, crafted in platinum and set with diamonds, emeralds, and onyx. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

Cartier’s '60s creations perfectly captured the era's mood, beginning in 1963 with exquisite ladies' cocktail rings and earrings crafted from fluted coral, adorned with a panther motif in pavé diamonds and onyx.

Further enhancing Cartier's reputation for bespoke luxury, in 1967, the legendary actress María Félix commissioned a remarkable bracelet featuring two overlapping panthers with articulated heads and legs, elegantly set in platinum with diamonds, emeralds, and onyx. 

The latter part of the decade saw Cartier's feline motifs gaining prominence among high society. In 1968, the double panther-head brooch—studded with diamonds, emeralds, and onyx—proved irresistibly exquisite for Giovanni Agnelli, who simply ‘had’ to own it.

The following year, the Maison introduced another feline-themed piece: a panther brooch crafted from gold, set with emeralds and lapis lazuli, and detailed with black lacquer and red-enamelled gold.

1970s: The Majestic Panther Brooch

A panther brooch crafted from engraved gold featuring emeralds and black lacquer on sculpted hardstones, including white chalcedony. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

With the start of a new decade, 1971 saw the debut of an exquisite new addition to Cartier's Panther collection. This luxurious feline brooch was a masterpiece of engraved gold, beautifully set with emeralds and highlighted with black lacquer. 

Its standout feature was the incorporation of sculpted hardstones, including the elegant white chalcedony. This piece marked a continuation of Cartier’s tradition of blending artistic craftsmanship with the mystique of the Big Cat.

1980s: Pierce Brosnan and His Panthère de Cartier Watch

Pierce Brosnan, in his role as the suave detective Remington Steele, showcased a dazzling gold Cartier Panthère, elegantly paired with the brand's iconic Figaro bracelet. - (Image courtesy of Billionaire Boys Club via Facebook)

The launch of the Panthère de Cartier watch in 1983 was a turning point in watchmaking, merging exquisite jewelry with functional timekeeping in a way that resonated with folks of that era. The iconic Panthère de Cartier distinguished itself with standout features like unique square cases, elegant Cartier dials, and, most notably, its flexible link bracelets.

Inspired by the graceful movements of a feline, the exquisite Cartier watch perfectly captured the '80s "glam" vibe, adorning the wrists of icons such as Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards.

2000s: Cartier's Modern Take on the Panther

The Panthère de Cartier ring, elegantly crafted in yellow gold and adorned with black lacquer, peridots, and onyx. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

The 2000s signaled the beginning of an innovative phase for Cartier’s Panthère motif, initiating a fresh chapter in 2003 with the Panthère de Cartier necklace, exquisitely crafted in white gold and adorned with emeralds, diamonds, and onyx. 

In 2005, the Maison introduced a new icon in luxury jewelry with the Panthère de Cartier ring. This exquisite piece—crafted with yellow gold, black lacquer, peridots, and onyx—presented a contemporary interpretation of the panther's grace and defined a modern aesthetic for the 21st century.

2010s: Pushing Boundaries

The innovative Promenade d'une Panthère watch, crafted in white gold and adorned with diamonds, features a feline that appears exceptionally lively and animated. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

The year 2010 marked a milestone in Cartier’s history with the debut of a medallion that perfectly encapsulated the brand’s flair for avant-garde luxury. Cartier's medallion is a subtle masterpiece that combines petrified wood with the sparkle of diamonds, the luster of fine pearls, the depth of emeralds, and the drama of onyx.

Notably, in 2014, Cartier introduced the Promenade d'une Panthère watch, a standout creation that merges impeccable design with practical functionality. This masterpiece is crafted in white gold, adorned with sparkling diamonds, and powered by the automatic Manufacture movement 9603 MC.

In a striking departure from tradition, Cartier highlighted the usually hidden inner mechanics on the dial, with the oscillating weight prominently displayed and artfully sculpted into a moving panther. Cartier's design choice vividly brings the Big Cat to life, making it appear more animated than ever before—a truly glorious sight to behold!

Pushing beyond, Cartier introduced the world to the scent of their emblematic feline with the 2014 launch of La Panthère Eau de Parfum. This feline floral fragrance combines the delicacy of gardenia with smooth musk, placing the wild beauty of gardenia at its heart to embody the panther’s fiery spirit.

2020s: A New Dawn

The La Panthère bracelet captures modern femininity with its design in yellow gold, onyx, emeralds, and brilliant-cut diamonds. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

With the arrival of 2020, Cartier's house and its emblematic feline have evolved into their best versions yet. The La Panthère bracelet—crafted in yellow gold, adorned with onyx, emeralds, and brilliant-cut diamonds—embodies the modern era's transformation. This creation represents a fresh interpretation of femininity, appealing to the contemporary woman who embodies elegance, freedom, and sensuality. 

With such flawless execution of each Panthère creation, anticipation naturally builds for what the Maison will roll out next (perhaps some avant-garde panther body jewelry? One can only guess!).

Shop the Iconic Panthère & More Cartier Classics

The legendary gold Tank Française watch, originally designed by Louis Cartier in 1917, is a timeless Cartier classic that was famously worn by Princess Diana and Meghan Markle. - (Image courtesy of Cartier)

Years may come and go, but the classic beauty of Cartier's Panthère never fades. For over a century, the pure-bred animal has embodied elegance and creativity at Cartier, steering the Maison's quest for excellence with its regal spirit.

The magnetic appeal of the panther design ensures that it remains highly sought after in the second-hand luxury jewelry market, appearing in every glorious feline-inspired form imaginable—from rings and earrings to necklaces, watches, brooches, and even glasses.

Going second-hand for Cartier jewelry is indeed a smart way to shop for savvy collectors, allowing them to own a piece of history and experience the same timeless quality and style, all at a more accessible price point.

One reliable source for starting or expanding your collection of preloved luxury jewelry is ZenLuxe. This luxe-exclusive online platform provides convenient access to both classic and new jewelry pieces that you may have hesitated to add to your wishlist due to their relatively high price points. Now, you no longer need to wait to adorn yourself with dream jewelry from your favorite luxury houses—you can shop on ZenLuxe and have your items expertly packaged by their professional team, ensuring safe and swift delivery directly to your doorstep.

About The Writer

Meet Mariam - a fashion writer who lives and breathes all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (there's nothing quite like the thrill of flipping through a sleek fashion magazine, is there?).