(Photo courtesy of Interview Magazine)
“I can’t imagine my life without jewelry,” says Madame Victoire de Castellane, the creative director of Dior's fine jewelry division, looking every bit the part among her sparkling Dior high jewelry collection at the brand’s 57th Street boutique.
Unforgettable at first glance, de Castellane has a style that screams personality: blonde hair bounced as she moved, an infectious smile lighting up her face, and an abundance of statement jewelry, proving that in her world, more is always more.
Her role at the House of Dior for over twenty years has brought a fresh, quirky energy to the prestigious luxury brand. Old rules? Out the window. She's pushed for more—more surreal, more extraordinary, more eccentric, more colors. “I love everything!” she raved.
Not Your Ordinary Jewelry Designer
(Photo courtesy of Pinterest)
You'd be right to assume Dior would be a magnet for the naturally gifted. Born on February 2, 1962, in Neuilly-sur-Seine, into the esteemed French aristocratic House of Castellane, Victoire de Castellane comes from an ancient Parisian noble family, tracing her lineage back to the 10th century. Her deep-rooted aristocratic background might have influenced her quirky character and design style, but at the end of the day, true talent stands on its own.
When de Castellane came on board at Dior in 1999, it was with a mission to fill a glaring gap in their portfolio: high jewelry. Dior needed a high jewelry department to complete its luxury offerings, and de Castellane was ready to lead. She brought her own flair of eccentric creativity and remarkable design prowess that redefined Dior's tradition in the most splendid way.
De Castellane faced a choice to either align with luxury jewelry's established 'rules' or venture down a new path. She opted for innovation over imitation.
Coffret de Victoire Ring by Victoire de Castellane. (Photo courtesy of Pop Up Uau)
Ignoring the standard, opulent styles of Place Vendôme, the artists boldly introduced a revolutionary concept of what gemstones should represent. Her innovative vision challenged the status quo, setting new trends within the House of Dior and, consequently, sending ripples throughout the jewelry world.
With such a brilliantly fresh approach to jewelry design, it’s no surprise that de Castellane once worked alongside Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, spearheading the design of the brand’s costume jewelry collection.
Imperfectly Perfect
(Photo courtesy of ALL-I-C)
Victoire de Castellane’s mind, a creative hub for jewelry design, overflowed with whimsical and surreal imagery—flowers, butterflies, insects, sea creatures, and, unsurprisingly, skulls. She boldly utilized underappreciated stones such as citrine, tourmaline, and beryl, crafting each piece with a flair for the dramatic.
De Castellane excels in merging the real with the fantastical, designing high-end jewelry that evokes the playfulness of costume pieces. As Dior's design extraordinaire, she naturally draws her creative muse from the influential legacy of Christian Dior. Yet, she also shook things up at the storied House by incorporating the lively and colorful aesthetics of Japanese animation—a modern and refreshing contrast to the brand's origins in 1946.
Rose Dior Bagatelle Ring by Victoire de Castellane. (Photo courtesy of Vogue)
Asymmetry has been the cornerstone of de Castellane's signature design element from the very beginning. She explained,
"When I start [designing a new] piece of jewelry I always start with asymmetrical things."
De Castellane remarks on how her Incroyable cocktail rings are designed uniquely on each side, inviting you to view it from multiple angles and “let your imagination wander.” What sets her creations apart? It’s the openness—each piece is ingeniously designed to offer more than one way to be seen and admired. It engages, it interacts, it connects.
It Starts with a Sketch, Ends with a Masterpiece
(Photo courtesy of The Jewellery Editor)
The awe-inspiring jewelry in de Castellane’s lines is the product of a rigorous yet harmonious process. She begins with a clear vision of the finished piece in her mind, quickly sketching it on a Post-it.
This initial idea is discussed with her studio team, who then create a detailed gouache drawing, capturing the jewel's real dimensions from multiple perspectives. Once the design ticks all the right boxes, it’s sent off to the specialized ateliers in Paris, but (as with any Dior creation) that's hardly the final step.
De Castellane maintains a close loop of feedback with the atelier, guiding every step of the process from the green wax casting to the meticulous setting and polishing, ensuring each piece perfectly reflects her initial vision.
The New Jewelry Rules
In 2019, Victoire de Castellane celebrated 20 years of Dior jewelry in Venice. The photo captures models in taupe and beige Dior dresses, adorned with striking pieces from de Castellane’s collection, Gem Dior (a clever play on J’aime, meaning “I love” in French), making the moment impossible to look away from. (Photo courtesy of Jewellery Show)
We're living in a curious time of jewelry trends. “Women wear jewelry so differently now, especially young women,” de Castellane observes an intriguing shift in fashion habits. “Before, [jewelry customers] were much more bourgeois—women wore full sets of jewelry, or they just wore it to go out. Now, it’s more bohemian, in a way—you’re living with your jewelry every day, and for me, jewelry has to be part of you. The ‘total look’ is for another kind of lady [of the past].”
Jewelry has indeed come a long way, evolving from fancy event-specific adornments to becoming an everyday ally for women. Sporting more sparkle, at least from the House of Dior, comes with a price tag reflective of their one-of-a-kind designs and expert craftsmanship.
While the costs of their bijoux are justified, the second-hand (AKA pre-loved) items are the wallet-friendly gateway to luxury that even celebrities like Kristen Bell can’t resist, stocking her wardrobe with lots of second-hand treasures!
If you're dreaming of luxury jewelry but want to keep your budget intact, ZenPlus is the perfect place to start. This online platform offers easy access to authentic pre-loved jewels at just a fraction of the cost, with the House of Dior being just one of the many top brands you can explore.
Start hunting down your budget-friendly gems in pristine condition and have them delivered right to your doorstep, and remember, as de Castellane enthusiastically says:
"Mixing your jewelry and adding costume pieces is much more fun and [feels] younger."
The more options you have, the better!
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer who lives and breathes all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (there's nothing quite like the thrill of flipping through a sleek fashion magazine, is there?).
