Founded in the heart of Paris in 1847 by visionary watchmaker Louis-François Cartier, the prestigious French luxury goods conglomerate has long been the choice of elites, a brand that royals and celebrities swear by. Why not, indeed? Its commitment to flawless craftsmanship and never-seen-before designs have earned it a revered spot among excellence seekers.
Cartier remains a leader in the luxury market with its iconic LOVE bracelet, now one of Google's most searched-for jewelry pieces. The brand outdid itself again in 2022, recording a stunning 88% increase in brand value and securing its position as the year's fastest-growing luxury brand.
If you’re just starting to explore the offerings of this legendary brand, consider beginning with five specific pieces that have adorned the world's elite since the 19th and 20th centuries. Let’s begin, however, with a short and intriguing history of the famed Parisian workshop, now operating under the prestigious name Maison Cartier.
It all started when…
Image by Cartier
The tale of Cartier started in 1847 when Louis-François Cartier took over the workshop of his master, Adolphe Picard, at 29 rue Montorgueil in Paris, planting the seeds for what would blossom into the prestigious Maison Cartier.
Fast forward to 1856, and the brand was embraced by Paris's elite and beyond, thanks to Princess Mathilde, cousin of Emperor Napoleon III, purchasing her very first Cartier creation.
The year 1898 saw Louis Cartier, the founder’s grandson, join Maison Cartier, marking a significant turning point in the brand's evolution. The following year, he established a new Cartier boutique at 13 rue de la Paix in Paris and introduced what would become known as the "Garland style."
Defined by its sophisticated application of platinum and diamonds, the Garland Style drew inspiration from neoclassical elements and introduced innovative platinum techniques. This style set a new benchmark in global jewelry design, showcasing unprecedented elegance that became highly sought after.
Cartier's prestigious journey as a royal supplier was highlighted in 1904 when it received its first royal certificate from King Edward VII's court. Later, the brand became the official purveyor of various royal courts worldwide, including Russia, Spain, and Siam.
The 5 Cartier Pieces that defined an era
The story of Cartier is one of prestigious achievements, largely thanks to its five iconic pieces worn and loved by the world's elite and those seeking the epitome of luxury.
Cartier Tank Watch
Image by Cartier
Icons like Princess Diana, Kanye West, Muhammad Ali, and Steve McQueen have all been seen wearing the legendary Tank watch, first conceptualized by Cartier in 1917 and introduced to the world in 1919. The extensive list of famous admirers of this instantly recognizable watch begs the question not of who has worn it but rather, who hasn’t?
The name and design of the Tank watch were inspired by the Renault FT-17 from WWI, a French tank that was among the first to feature a fully rotating turret, making it a landmark in armored vehicle design.
Images by GQ
The Tank watch echoed the pioneering spirit of its military namesake with a distinctive design characterized by clean, crisp lines and elegant features. Its free-spirited design helped cement its status as the watch of leaders, boasting a broad appeal among early wristwatch adopters and maintaining its revered status to this day.
Harry Fane, a renowned Cartier watch dealer, expressed great admiration for the Cartier Tank wristwatch: “What's amazing is that the Cartier Tank wristwatch—which has accompanied every major happening in the last hundred years—has not changed in design in a hundred years.”
La Panthère Collection
Images by Cartier
In 1914, the Maison Cartier introduced its emblematic animal with the iconic La Panthère motif, debuting on a wristwatch beautifully adorned with diamonds and onyx. The following year, Pierre Cartier added a chatelaine watch with a panther-patterned onyx and diamond case to the collection.
By 1917, the motif expanded into accessories, exemplified by a cigarette case in diamonds, onyx, and platinum, which Louis Cartier gifted to Jeanne Toussaint, marking the first figurative depiction of a panther. The theme continued to evolve in 1928 with the creation of a panther brooch featuring diamonds and black enamel spots set in platinum on a striking coral and black enamel base.
Cartier had a prestigious moment in 1928 when the Prince of Nepal acquired a panther-patterned cigarette case and lighter in gold and black enamel. Two years later, Cartier introduced its first bracelet featuring coral beads with a clasp designed in a panther pattern using diamonds and onyx.
Jeanne Toussaint | Odyssée de Cartier: Chapter 1
The motif achieved a new artistic level in 1935 with a unique ring that featured two panthers in yellow gold and black enamel with a central star ruby, marking the first three-dimensional representation of the panther.
In 1948, the Duke of Windsor ordered a unique Cartier brooch featuring a three-dimensional yellow gold panther on a 116-carat cabochon-cut emerald. This piece represented a historical first for Cartier, showcasing the panther in complete form for the first time.
Images by Cartier and Town & Country
In 1958, the motif's prestige was further highlighted by a commission from Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan for the first pair of panther-head earrings elegantly adorned with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds.
As Cartier transitioned into the modern era, it unveiled the iconic Panthère de Cartier ring in 2005, masterfully combining yellow gold, black lacquer, peridots, and onyx. The introduction of this ring marked the dawn of a new era for Cartier in the 21st century, offering a modern reinterpretation of the iconic motif.
This fresh take is echoed in creations like the Promenade d'une Panthère watch, crafted in white gold and diamonds, the La Panthère bracelet in yellow gold, onyx, emeralds, and brilliant-cut diamonds, and even the La Panthère Eau de Parfum, which pay tribute to the emblematic animal of the Maison.
Cartier Trinity Ring
Image by Cartier
Recognizable at a glance, the Cartier Trinity ring features three intertwined golden bands, each in a different color, representing love, friendship, and fidelity. The legendary unisex design has adorned the fingers of various celebrities and royals, including Princess Diana, the Princess of Wales, Kylie Jenner, Grace Kelly, and HM The King.
Images by British Vogue
The introduction of the three-band ring in 1924, later known as the Trinity ring, marked a significant moment in jewelry design, with Jean Cocteau among its first notable male wearers.
The enduring fascination with this seemingly simple structure lies in its deep symbolism and aesthetic appeal. The ring's design features three interlocked bands of yellow, rose, and white gold, each representing different aspects of a relationship or personal values. This blending of different golds symbolizes the unity and harmony of various entities into a singular, cohesive whole.
Images by British Vogue
The Trinity ring's design allows for multiple interpretations, enhancing its allure and relevance across cultures and generations. It can symbolize the temporal connection of past, present, and future, making it a poignant reminder of life's continuity.
Its versatile symbolism and elegant simplicity make it suitable for commemorating life's significant milestones, whether engagements, anniversaries, or personal achievements. The ring's cyclical significance and timeless appeal keep it endlessly relevant, embodying what it means to be a timeless icon.
Juste un Clou Bracelet
Image by Cartier
The brilliant mind behind the Nail bracelet—known as "Clou" in French— was Italian jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo. Originating in New York in 1971, the groundbreaking design takes the form of a striking nail, elegantly crafted in rich gold and, in certain models, studded with brilliant diamonds.
The piece stood out as a masterpiece of jewelry design, capturing the essence of minimalism and elegance that appealed to the tastes of its time.
Aldo Cipullo saw the potential for beauty in the mundane. His observant nature brought inspiration from the often-overlooked aspects of daily existence, particularly humble items like nuts, bolts, and nails.
Images by Rebag
The designer envisioned a nail reborn as a luxurious ornament, delivering a deeper message about the beauty hidden in everyday simplicity—a concept that only a few, if any, of his era could replicate.
With icons like Angelina Jolie, Kendall Jenner, and Dua Lipa sporting Juste un Clou pieces, it's no surprise that this particular design remains highly sought after in the Cartier collection, even after half a century has passed.
Cartier LOVE Bracelet
Image by Cartier
The same visionary behind the Juste un Clou bracelet, Aldo Cipullo, created the Cartier LOVE bracelet in New York in 1969, marking a groundbreaking shift in the perception of jewelry. This timeless piece from Cartier transcends its aesthetic value, embodying deeper meanings of love, commitment, and lasting bonds.
The unisex gold bracelet with its small signature screws broke away from conventional views that jewelry should showcase one's social standing and wealth. Instead, it was designed for everyday wear (not just special occasions) and secured to the wrist with its precious screwdriver.
Images by British Vogue and Something About Rocks
This liberated approach to jewelry, which places greater value on personal significance than lavishness, has catalyzed the evolution of casual luxury into modern aesthetics. “It captured the spirit of the time when sexual liberation and casual luxury were coming to the fore,” explains Vivienne Becker, author of Cipullo: Making Jewelry Modern.
When the LOVE bracelet was first introduced, it is said that Cartier gifted pairs to some of the most celebrated couples of the 20th century, ranging from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, as well as Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen, and Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti.
Today, the iconic Cartier LOVE bracelet remains a favorite among the elite. Notably, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex were seen wearing matching LOVE bracelets on the cover of TIME magazine in 2020, with Meghan also wearing hers at several high-profile events.
Shop Iconic Cartier Pieces Online
It's no longer the 19th century, and Cartier has embraced the digital age, bringing the world of luxury to your home with unprecedented ease. Today, it's possible to shop all your favorite Cartier classics without leaving home via the luxury-exclusive platform zenluxe, which offers an elite shopping experience that meets the needs of the modern customer.
This means you can build your Cartier collection with pieces that have defined centuries of style, all from the comfort of your home while scrolling through virtually endless luxury offerings. The moment these Cartier pieces touch your skin, you feel a deep connection to the history and the legends who have adorned them, carrying forward the prestigious heritage they represent.
Luxury is more accessible than ever—so don't miss out!
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer with a geek-level enthusiasm for all things vogue and glamor. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (because who doesn’t enjoy flipping through a glossy fashion magazine?).
