(Photo courtesy of Vogue)
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s tweed attire has been a hallmark of high fashion for over a century, delivering an ideal combination of airy comfort and classic aesthetics that withstands the ebb and flow of trends.
Whether it’s a jacket, skirt, or dress, one glance at a tweed Chanel masterpiece explains why it was such an instant hit. The moment you slip into one, the rich texture and perfect weight of the fabric immediately conjure the quintessence of true French fashion, enchanting both the one wearing it and those who look on in admiration.
Let’s embark on a historical journey through Chanel's legendary tweed design, beginning with the Mademoiselle’s first spark of inspiration, through its flawless execution, to its memorable moments in the annals of fashion and its continued reign as a style icon.
Chanel's Love Affair With Tweed — And the Duke
(Photo courtesy of Vogue)
Long before Chanel made it a fashion statement, tweed was mostly found in men’s wardrobes. Today, women can revel in the remarkable qualities of tweed, refined to perfection by the house of Chanel.
Dreamed up by Coco Chanel in the 1920s, the legendary tweed style offered a breath of fresh air against the restrictive corsets of the era. Her goal was to carve out a unique identity for women, setting them apart from the crowd. The liberating design has remained a signature of the house and a staple in the wardrobes of fashion-forward mademoiselles worldwide.
The exceptional classiness of Chanel's tweed may well stem from its noble inspiration. Gabrielle's first brush with tweed sportswear, borrowed from her lover Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster, served as the ultimate catalyst for her innovation. It was a lightning-bolt moment for Chanel: the realization that comfort and sophistication could coexist under her label, heralding the start of the ultra-classy tweed era.
Chanel smiling in 1924 as she wears one of the Duke’s cozy hunting jackets while enjoying the crisp air of the Scottish Highlands. (Photo courtesy of Vogue)
The sports-enthusiast Duke favored tweed for his country pursuits like hunting and fishing, with Chanel often sporting pieces from his collection during their joint outings. This durable twill material, native to Scotland and Ireland, provided essential warmth for farmers through harsh winters and later became a staple among the 19th-century aristocracy.
The duo first crossed paths in 1923 at Monte Carlo, quickly leading to frequent gatherings with aristocratic companions at his sprawling Scottish Highlands estate. Among those friends was Winston Churchill, who, in a 1927 letter to his wife Clementine, noted Coco's relentless fishing from dawn to dusk. He described her as "very agreeable – really a great and strong being fit to rule a man or an Empire."
Behind the Seams: The Making of Chanel’s Tweed Items
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Gabrielle Chanel gave tweed a revolutionary makeover, infusing it with refined colors, luxurious softness, and an upscale richness that echoed her brand's fusion of masculine and feminine elements.
Starting in 1924, Chanel teamed up with a Scottish factory to customize her tweed fabrics with unique colors, moving away from traditional shades like green, red, and violet. This history-making collaboration allowed her to create everything from innovative sportswear to more formal coats and suits.
She found inspiration in the Scottish countryside, carefully selecting colors that spoke to her and often returning with leaves and soil samples to guide her manufacturers.
Chanel reminisced:
"I brought in tweeds from Scotland, home-spuns came to oust crepes and muslin. I arranged for woollens to be washed less so that they kept their softness. I was the one… who taught the Scots how to make light tweeds."
In the 1930s, she moved production to northern France and pushed boundaries by blending her classic tweed creations with cotton, wool, cellophane, and silk.
This creative combination was the ultimate refresh for her tweed collection, hitting the sweet spot between timeless luxury and modern-day wearability. Chanel indeed lived by her own words:
"In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different"
Chanel’s Tweed Becomes the Hottest Look of the 50s
(Photo courtesy of Chanel)
Coco Chanel’s tweed style took the fashion world by storm when it first hit the scene. At 71, Gabrielle Chanel made a bold return to the fashion world, reopening her couture house in 1954 with a highly anticipated show on February 5th — one that received high praise from the American media. Chanel remained steadfast in her vision and committed to liberating women from restrictive clothing and rigid gender norms.
Meanwhile, Christian Dior had already reshaped post-war fashion with his “New Look” silhouette. This design sharply contrasted with the 1940s trend of masculine, crisp silhouettes with defined shoulders and slim hips, instead featuring dresses that cinched at the waist to enhance the feminine form, softened shoulders with round padding, and voluminous hips created by layers of tulle and crinoline — all aimed at creating a hyper-feminine ideal.
Unfazed by Dior's dominance, Chanel carved out her own niche. In 1956, she introduced the iconic trimmed tweed suit to her collection. The look was the talk of the town when the world’s fashionistas and celebrities embraced it. Notably, Marie-Hélène Arnaud made fashion history when she graced the pages of Vogue’s September 1958 issue, wearing a suit from Chanel’s Fall/Winter 1958/1959 Haute Couture Collection.
A Chanel tweed suit became emblematic of one of the most heartrending days in history. On November 22, 1963, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy wore a pink Chanel suit as the tragedy unfolded: the day her husband, President John F. Kennedy, was assassinated in Texas.
(Photo courtesy of Harper's Bazaar Germany and Riyadh Alsaleh via Pinterest)
Despite expectations that First Ladies wear only American-made fashion, she stepped out in what would become one of history’s most iconic ensembles. The eye-catching pink boucle suit featured a navy lapel and gleaming gold buttons. She completed the look with a matching pink pillbox hat, white gloves, and layers of pearls draped elegantly around her neck.
Sitting beside JFK in the motorcade that day in Dallas, Jackie was just inches away when the unthinkable happened. Her elegant pink suit was instantly stained with his blood, turning the once-vibrant fabric into a symbol of loss.
Through the chaos at the hospital and the heartbreaking flight back to Washington, she refused to change or wipe it away, making a powerful statement that would echo through history: “Let them see what they’ve done.”
Chanel’s tweed earned a regal seal of approval when Princess Diana embraced it as part of her signature look. A fashion icon in every sense, Princess Diana had designers clamoring to dress her, naturally including the prestigious House of Chanel.
(Photo courtesy of Vogue)
Early in her time as a royal, she became known for her enduring love of Chanel’s impeccably tailored tweed suits. Among her most memorable tweed attires was a blue bouclé tweed wool suit, which she wore several times in 1997, just months before her tragic death. This iconic suit was subsequently displayed at Kensington Palace.
Non-tweed Chanel suits were also a staple in Diana’s wardrobe, as she frequently wore them with pride at high-profile royal events. A notable piece in her collection was a Chanel black wool dress jacket, complete with a belt, which she graciously gifted to a Spencer family staff member who had served since 1990. Diana wore this “mourning outfit” to her grandmother’s, her father's, and Adrian Jackson Ward’s funerals, among other solemn occasions.
Beyond classic black, the Princess had a well-documented love for Chanel’s colorful suits, often gravitating toward timeless colors like cream, bold red, and refreshing mint green.
Tweed from Head to Toe? Chanel Made It Possible
(Photo courtesy of Refinery29 Australia via Pinterest)
The variety Chanel brings to tweed is quite remarkable. With an ever-evolving vision, the House of Chanel has introduced countless iterations of tweed over the years — but the classic Chanel suit remains the most legendary of them all.
With its soft, untailored silhouettes and lightweight tweed, a Chanel suit perfectly captures the Mademoiselle’s vision of freeing women from rigid fashion norms. The design features skirt pleats and jacket sleeves with high-cut armholes to enhance mobility. Additionally, the matching blouses are designed to complement the jacket lining and include practical elements like self-tie bows and buttonholes.
Besides the famous suits, Chanel’s tweed collection also features classy tweed dresses to die for. The Maison’s tweed dresses embrace the fabric’s inherent texture to add depth and dimension, featuring designs that range from sleek, subtle cuts to detailed patterns that sculpt the form while ensuring freedom of movement.
Chanel extends its tweed offerings to include luxury accessories, turning a wide range of handbags into textured masterpieces. Their tweed handbags are meant to harmonize with the aesthetic of their iconic suits and dresses. They feature similar patterns and are embellished with the same detailed craftsmanship, including quilted stitching and the iconic interlocking CC logo.
For tweed enthusiasts, a pair of Chanel’s tweed shoes is an absolute must-have. These shoes showcase the brand’s mastery in transforming classic fabrics into high-fashion essentials, seamlessly extending the textural elegance of tweed from apparel to footwear (because luxury shouldn’t stop at your toes!).
Pushing the boundaries of tweed even further, Chanel introduced the Tweed de Chanel high jewelry collection, where the iconic fabric and haute joaillerie merge in a striking display of craftsmanship.
Unlike the pieces coming from the famous Lesage atelier, this collection is born in the jewelry workshop at 18 Place Vendôme, where craftsmen expertly use precious gold to replicate the softness of tweed and intricately weave in pearls, diamonds, and a spectrum of precious gemstones.
What else has Chanel tweeded it? Shirts, pants, hats, watches, and every conceivable tweed creation. It’s no surprise from the house that made the fabric iconic, as tweed keeps ruling the fashion world season after season. Tweed quickly became the heartbeat of Chanel and continues to gain momentum with time.
(Photo courtesy of Zoon Imran via Pinterest)
You can explore Chanel’s luxurious tweed (and non-tweed) items at significantly reduced prices on ZenLuxe, where luxury seekers can shop second-hand — better known as preloved — originals in surprisingly pristine condition.
Enjoy the convenience of having luxury items neatly packaged and delivered directly to your doorstep. After all, as Coco Chanel once believed,
"Fashion has two purposes: comfort and love"
If you’re comfortable in it and adore its flawless condition, then you’re already at the top of the fashion game!
About The Writer
Meet Mariam — a fashion writer who lives and breathes all things vogue and glamour. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores; it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (there's nothing quite like the thrill of flipping through a sleek fashion magazine, is there?).