Cartier Tank Française - (Image courtesy of Hodinkee)
Wars often leave devastation in their wake but can also spark magnificent creativity.
The legendary Cartier Tank watch, inspired by the battlefields of WWI, has been a symbol of refined luxury for over a century. A long line of the world’s most prominent figures has cherished this iconic timepiece, from American first ladies Jackie Kennedy and Michelle Obama to Britain’s Lady Diana, Princess of Wales, and the legendary Muhammad Ali. Pop art icon and devoted Cartier watch enthusiast Andy Warhol famously remarked about his Tank watch,
"I don’t wear a Tank to tell the time. In fact, I never wind it. I wear a Tank because it’s the watch to wear."
This enduring love begs the question: what kind of magic did Louis Cartier put into his watch?
An Icon Born from Warfare
Renault FT-17 Tank - (Image courtesy of Military Trader/Vehicles)
Louis Cartier ingeniously crafted the Tank watch in 1917, though it wasn't produced in large numbers until 1919. Drawing inspiration from the formidable tanks of WWI, the iconic watch was named and shaped—a rectangular, curvilinear case—after the Renault FT-17 tank. This design was pioneered by the French automobile company Renault, featuring a groundbreaking fully rotating turret that marked a significant advancement in tank technology.
When John Pershing received a handmade, rectangular watch prototype from Louis Cartier in 1917, it signaled a pioneering moment in the history of wristwatches, being among the first ever made. Legend has it that the iconic Cartier Tank watch was first created by Louis Cartier as a token of gratitude for General John Pershing, the American commander credited with helping restore peace in Europe.
During the era the watch was introduced, men would have been reluctant to adopt a modern gadget like a wristwatch, preferring instead the style of a pocket watch, which was traditionally tucked into the vest of a three-piece suit as dictated by 19th-century etiquette. But guess what? The Tank watch became an instant hit from the moment it debuted, resonating with the aesthetes of its generation and captivating both men and women.
It wasn't long before the artistic and cultural avant-gardes adopted Cartier’s watch, drawn to its pure lines and fresh design. This iconic timepiece continually reinvented itself with new interpretations, maintaining its appeal throughout the rise of wristwatches and sustaining its popularity well into the 20th century.
Inside the Tank
Cartier Tank watch design - (Image courtesy of Cartier)
A closer look at the Tank’s design reveals Louis Cartier's brilliant craftsmanship: The dial features a rectangular ring of Roman hour numerals, an interior railroad minute track, blued sword hands, and a beaded crown topped with a blue sapphire cabochon.
This combination of features marks it as one of the earliest and most lasting examples of Art Deco's impact on wristwatch design. Art Deco, a movement that flourished in the U.S. and Europe during the 1920s and 1930s, is known for its precise, boldly delineated geometric shapes and vibrant colors, all of which are echoed in the Tank's aesthetic.
Cartier's decision to opt for a rectangular case instead of the conventional round shape marked a bold departure in watch design. This style choice established the watch as a bespoke creation for the wrist, setting it apart from other early wristwatches that were only round pocket watches adapted for wearing on the wrist.
The Tank watch's aesthetic hinges on a simple yet sophisticated graphic idea, where the brancards represent the tracks, and the case symbolizes the vehicle's cabin. This harmonious concept unites the elements to introduce a foundational principle—the seamless integration of the case with the bracelet, creating a continuous visual rhythm that is both striking and elegantly cohesive.
The Chameleon of the Watch World
Different Cartier Tank watch models - (Image courtesy of Luxuo)
Like a chameleon, the Cartier Tank watch showcases remarkable adaptability to the fluctuating trends of each era (no matter how wildly trends decide to shift!). More than a century after its launch, the Tank watch has seen numerous variations, evolving into a variety of sub-collections from the original model.
When browsing Cartier for a Tank watch, one can notice that what started as a singular, iconic timepiece in 1919 has blossomed into an extensive collection of dazzling Tank watches. With a range that includes virtually every style imaginable, choosing just one can be a delightful challenge, as each model offers something uniquely appealing to every watch enthusiast's taste.
The Tank watch's journey is one of ever-increasing elegance as it consistently adapts and reinvents its offerings to stay ahead of the curve. Starting in 1921, the case was elongated, and the brancards were refined in what became known as the Tank LC, which was dedicated to Louis Cartier himself.
The late 1970s introduced the monochrome dials with the Must series, marking a bold departure in style. In 1988, the launch of the Tank Américaine introduced a new twist to the iconic series, featuring an elongated case with a more pronounced curve compared to the original model. Then, in 1996, the Tank Française marked another innovation with its metal bracelet designed in perfect continuity with the case.
The Tank Anglaise is another brilliant variation of Cartier's iconic Tank watch. Released in 2012, this variant honors the distinctive features of the original Tank watch while introducing a novel twist: a winding mechanism seamlessly integrated into the case, maintaining the perfect alignment the Tank is famous for.
In tune with modern preferences, Cartier has even launched the Tank Must SolarBeat, the collection's first solar-powered watch. Not only is it a milestone for the Tank series, but it's also Cartier's first venture into solar-powered watches. The Swiss-made SolarBeatTM movement harnesses photovoltaic energy, allowing the watch's battery to recharge under daylight and artificial light.
Today, everyone can discover their ideal Cartier timepiece. The extensive collection offers various models that cater to all wrist sizes and skin tones, with choices of leather or bracelet straps, either elegantly simple or luxuriously adorned with diamonds—though the original Louis Cartier design remains the pinnacle of elegance and a significant symbol of history.
Who Wears the Tank Watch? Who Doesn't!
Fashionable as always, Princess Diana wearing her Cartier Tank Louis watch - (Images courtesy of GQ and Vogue)
Cartier's Tank could legitimately be the most iconic watch in history. Over the past century, this timepiece has remained a favorite of numerous historical figures. Among its most notable admirers was Princess Diana, who famously chose the Cartier Tank Louis as her preferred watch during a pivotal time in her life.
As her marriage unraveled, Diana replaced the Patek Philippe gold watch— a 20th birthday gift from Prince Charles—with the Cartier Tank Louis, a present from her father, Earl Edward John Spencer. Diana found the perfect match in Cartier’s elegant and innovative timepiece, which reflected her newly independent personality.
Princess Diana's collection included more than just the Cartier Tank Louis.
Meghan Markle wearing Princess Diana’s gold Cartier Tank Française - (Images courtesy of Cartier and Something About Rocks)
For more formal events, she often chose a gold Cartier Tank Française, a piece that became a part of her legacy and was inherited by her sons after her passing.
Prince Harry, cherishing the sentimental value of the watch, gifted it to his wife, Meghan Markle. Meghan, too, seems to recognize and appreciate the deep significance of this elegant timepiece, often seen wearing it at significant events, symbolically continuing the tradition of its meaningful and stylish presence.
Muhammad Ali, "The Greatest Of All Time," was also among the distinguished wearers of the iconic Cartier Tank watch. On his wrist was the Tank JC, a classic model within the Cartier lineup and notably the second version produced.
Muhammad Ali wearing his Cartier Tank Louis watch - (Images courtesy of GQ)
Originally, this model was known as the Tank LC, named after Louis Cartier. By the 1970s, when Ali wore his watch, the model had been renamed the Tank JC in honor of Jean-Jacques Cartier, the son of Louis's brother Jacques Cartier, who was instrumental in establishing the company in the early 20th century.
Even for someone with Ali's agile prowess, famous for "floating like a butterfly," his choice of a delicate watch presents a surprising contrast to his heavyweight champion persona. Today, there’s a common misconception about Cartier watches being small, which isn't quite accurate.
It’s more about the shift in fashion trends—modern preferences lean towards larger watches, making traditional sizes like Cartier's ones appear smaller. But in their prime, even towering figures like Muhammad Ali could appreciate the understated elegance of the Cartier Tank, which reflected his refined taste and offered a sophisticated contrast to his charismatic public image.
Steve McQueen, often hailed as one of the most iconic leading men in cinema, was also a devoted fan of the Cartier Tank watch. In his role in The Thomas Crown Affair, Steve McQueen embraced the elegance of the Cartier Tank, a departure from his usual tough-guy persona. The 1968 movie highlighted a different, more refined side of McQueen, perfectly complemented by Cartier Tank Cintrée.
Steven McQueen wearing his personal Cartier Tank Cintrée in 1968’s ‘The Thomas Crown Affair’ - (Images courtesy of Cartier and Mason & Sons)
The watch that Steve McQueen sported featured an extended, curved form designed for a snug wrist fit. This watch was a rare edition, produced in New York during the late 1960s or early 1970s, and was a modern adaptation of its 1920s predecessor.
Among the illustrious wearers of the Cartier Tank watch, Rudolph Valentino stands out for wearing his Tank wristwatch while filming The Son of the Sheik in 1926. The Maison's Tank watch also adorned the wrist of the ever-stylish Yves Saint Laurent, further solidifying its status as a timeless symbol of French luxury.
An interesting fact about the Cartier Tank watch involves Jackie Kennedy, who frequently wore her gold Tank with a black band throughout the 1970s. This particular watch became a highlight at Christie's Rare Watches and American Icons auction in 2017, where it sold for $395,000—far exceeding the estimated $60,000-$120,000. The winning bid was made by an anonymous bidder, who was later revealed to be Kim Kardashian.
Jackie Kennedy and her signature Cartier Tank watch - (Image courtesy of Watchonista)
The American reality television personality and businesswoman said that she wore the watch during her 2018 visit to the White House, where she met with President Trump to advocate for the clemency of Alice Marie Johnson. Kadarshian shared:
"I wore it when I went to the White House. It gave me some power: Let’s get in there and get this done!"
And just when you think the Cartier Tank couldn't possibly have more illustrious admirers, its roster of notable wearers expands even further: Icons such as Michelle Obama, Charlotte Rampling, Andy Warhol, Duke Ellington, Truman Capote, Clark Gable, Gary Cooper, Cary Grant, Angelina Jolie, and Kanye West have all fell for of its stunning silhouette.
The Cartier Tank Experience—More Accessible than Ever
Cartier Tank watch - (Image courtesy of Cartier)
The purpose of owning a Cartier Tank isn’t just telling time. As a watch of choice for the most brilliant minds in history, the Cartier Tank naturally comes with a premium price tag. This cost is justified by the brand's rich heritage, exceptional craftsmanship, and the watch's status as a highly sought-after collectible.
The watch of the legends embodies the prestige of an iconic creation from the famed French luxury house established in 1847. While it functions as a timepiece, it's primarily a symbol of refined taste, a testament to one’s appreciation for lasting style and quality, and a sound investment whose value has only grown over the years.
Investing in a brand-new Cartier Tank watch is a wise decision, but if you’re eager to don this iconic timepiece sooner, purchasing a second-hand Tank can provide all the prestige and quality at a fraction of the cost.
For those looking to wrap their wrist with an authentic, pre-loved Cartier Tank watch, ZenLuxe is an online platform where you can explore a wide selection of genuine, pre-owned Cartier Tank watches in excellent condition.
Shopping for second-hand luxury items offers the reassurance that these timeless pieces hold their value and still dazzle like brand new, much like Princess Diana's cherished Tank watch that her sons inherited.
So, here's the scoop: you get the renowned Cartier Tank watch at a reduced price, the convenience of shopping online via ZenLuxe, and the assurance of expert packaging to guarantee safe doorstep delivery. Ready to seal the deal?
About The Writer
Meet Mariam - a fashion writer with a geek-level enthusiasm for all things vogue and glamor. For her, the most therapeutic aspect of fashion goes beyond simply shopping for the latest styles that appear in stores—it’s fully experiencing this glamorous world from the little details to the big moments (because who doesn’t enjoy flipping through a glossy fashion magazine?).
